Solar v2 – choosing the components

Since my first attempt at solar, I have learnt a few things and several new bits of tech have been introduced into the market. Some of the new tech include; all-in-one inverters, bigger “better” batteries, shingled solar panels and micro-inverters…

Time to take the learnings from my first solar project and scale-out

New Parts

An all-in-one solar inverters can include the following functions in a single device;

  • Solar Controller – MPPT (2x string inputs)
  • Inverter – Converts DC (48v) to AC (pure sine wave @230v, 50 hertz)
  • Battery Charger –
    • from Grid (AC -> DC)
    • from Solar Panels (DC -> DC)
  • ATS / Line mode – Flicks over to Grid if solar or batteries are low
  • BMS, Timers and Controls – Can program battery types, priorities and timers depending on how you want to power your loads and utilize your batteries.
  • Stats / Alerts – WIFI enabled

I have committed to an 8kW PV all-in-one inverter. My house doesn’t have a north-facing roof, but it has a NE and NW facing roof which isn’t too bad, the bonus of having 2 string feeds on the inverter means that each side of the roof will act independently without dragging down the total power output.

I’m currently running a few lead-acid batteries on my solar. I’ve been in two minds about whether I continue with batteries or go with a hybrid system that effectively uses the grid as a battery. I ended up deciding to go with batteries one last time, here in NZ the solar rebate is not really worth the effort of exporting – we typically get wholesale prices which can be 1/3 of the cost of power. I’ve also been pretty excited about how quickly the new LiFePO batteries can charge and discharge, so I’ve committed to a couple of 48v PylonTech batteries in a stack, totaling 7kWh.

Us3000 48v/74ah 3.5kwh Lithium Battery Solar Battery Pylontech 48v  Residential Battery - Buy Pylontech Us3000,3.5kwh Lithium Battery,10kwh  Lithium Battery Product on Alibaba.com

They can peak at 100A (15s) but the recommended rate is 37A each. At 48v this will give me a charge / discharge power rate of 3.55kW (37A x 48V x2) in total. In some cases it may be beneficial to charge with cheaper off-peak power from the grid.

Singled solar panels are pretty nice, with more surface area and better resiliency. I found a 480W mono Hyundai panel which I’ll use to build 2 strings of 4 panels. In total, this gives me 3.84kW (480W x 4 x 2)

In terms of power, for my next venture I decided to stay with the more traditional DC solar panels. There is however another choice thanks to the introduction of micro-inverters. These little devices convert power on each panel direct to AC, which includes several advantages; higher voltage, operate in parallel (independent of other panels). Each also has its own sensors if you want to see stats!

The next sections – powering things, ROI, the build, safety

Solar – modifications complete

Two recent modifications to my solar system have changed the daily generated power considerably.

First section highlighted above – i added the ATS and 24/7 load (this server)

Second section highlighted above – moving the 6 panels from east and west to north facing roof. (only reason i didn’t do this initially is north facing roof is a lot higher and i hate heights!)

Copper wire gauge and max amps

Do not skimp on your wiring across your solar installation. Pushing too many amps across a wire that is too small can cause fires and short your installation – this is dangerous!

A rightly sized wire reduces resistance and can assist with reducing voltage drop.

For example, in my system i have a 1000W inverter attached to my 24v battery. If i’m pulling 1000W, then amps 1000W / 24V = 41.67A. Meaning i should be using a 6 gauge wire (see below) between my battery and inverter.

Solar panels can be attached in series to increase their voltage, this is one method for reducing amps over the wire. But, keep in mind that if you raise the voltage you will need a way to reduce it back down to match the voltage of your battery. i.e. in most cases it would be best to utilize a MPPT solar controller to automatically convert the power from your solar panels to you battery.

As a GUIDE to maximum amps across a copper wire ;

  • 14-gauge wire: 15 amps
  • 12-gauge wire: 20 amps
  • 10-gauge wire: 30 amps
  • 8-gauge wire: 40 amps
  • 6-gauge wire: 55 amps
  • 4-gauge wire: 70 amps
  • 3-gauge wire: 85 amps
  • 2-gauge wire: 95 amps

Note : length of wire also determines its resistance. I have not covered it here, but if running wires over large distances you will also require a lower (fatter) gauge wire. Try to keep high amp loads across short distances. i.e. keep your inverter near your batteries.

lead acid battery “state of charge” chart

Lead acid batteries do not like being completely discharged. I have used the following chart for reference, in most cases i only discharge my battery to 50% DOD (depth of discharge).

Even deep cycle lead acids life (max charge cycles) will be extended if it is not completely discharged. It is also generally recommend to completely charge your battery after use – i.e. take the battery back to full charge in a single cycle.

My battery is a deep cycle 24v bank, so i generally only discharge (under load) to about 24.0v (see ATS post)